Some 8 kms south of Kathmandu lays a Newari village dating back to the Malla period. Its red brick houses with tiled roofs and carved windows of typical Newari craftsmanship line the paved roads around the open chowks and courtyards. This is a unique village of distinctive sights and scents. Be it the overwhelming aroma of roasted mustard seeds that engulfs the village, houses adorned with garlands of red chillies pegged to their facade, men engrossed in conversation enveloped in smoke wafting up traditional hukka pipes or the jatras and festivals that are particular to the village. Khokana is a treasure trove of unspoilt culture- the architecture, the industrial oil mills, the people and their way of life. This once affluent village known for producing the best mustard-oil in the country is finally efforts to adapt to modern times. The core fabric of the village however remains unaltered and the residents are keen to preserve their individuality and hold on their roots.